What made this journey particularly memorable was the timing. We were travelling through Europe during an intense summer heatwave, with temperatures reaching 38–41°C, while at the same time the Danube was experiencing record low water levels.

For me, this made the trip especially valuable as a travel advisor, because I wasn't just experiencing a river cruise — I was seeing first-hand what happens when the river isn't behaving as expected, how AmaWaterways manages those challenges, how they communicate with guests, and how they continue to deliver the experience their passengers have booked.

And, of course, I got to do all of this while travelling through some of Europe's most beautiful destinations.

So, here's my week aboard AmaSofia.

Meet AmaSofia

Before I take you through the itinerary, let me introduce our home for the week.  AmaSofia is one of AmaWaterways' newest European river ships, launched in 2026.

A few facts:

• Length: 135 metres

• Guests: 152

• Staterooms: 76

• Crew: 51

The ship has spacious public areas, multiple dining options, a Sun Deck with pool, fitness room, Main Lounge and a range of stateroom categories, including AmaWaterways' signature twin-balcony accommodation.

During our time onboard, I had the opportunity to look at several different cabin categories. I've photographed the different layouts and shared these across my social media platforms, so if you're considering an AmaWaterways cruise and want to see what the cabins are actually like, take a look there.

Day 1 – Budapest: A Different Start to Our Journey

Our journey began in Budapest, where we were met by Tamas, who would be our tour director for the next eight days.

This wasn't quite the traditional start to a river cruise.

Because of the exceptionally low water levels, we weren't boarding AmaSofia in Budapest. Instead, AmaWaterways had arranged for us to stay at the stunning Dorothea Hotel, a beautiful luxury property in the heart of Budapest.

After checking in, we gathered for a briefing about the week ahead. We were introduced to the itinerary, our excursions and what we could expect over the coming days, before enjoying a fabulous welcome dinner.

Even on that first evening, the heat was impossible to ignore.

Coming straight from a New Zealand winter into temperatures approaching 40°C was quite a shock to the system!

But the low Danube levels were also impossible to miss.

As a travel advisor, I was immediately interested to see how AmaWaterways would manage the situation. This was actually one of the things I was most looking forward to experiencing first-hand.

Day 2 – Budapest, Bratislava & Melk

The following morning, our bags were outside our rooms by 7:00am.

After breakfast, we departed Budapest around 9:00am, meeting our driver and guide who would take us by coach to Bratislava and then onwards to Melk, where AmaSofia was waiting for us.

Our Bratislava guide had grown up in the city, so he was a wealth of knowledge and gave us a wonderful personal insight into the city and its history.

One thing I really appreciated was how AmaWaterways caters for different activity levels.

Excursions are clearly identified, including:

• Pink: Gentle/relaxed walking pace

• Regular: Standard walking pace

It might seem like a small detail, but I think it's incredibly helpful. You know before you head out whether an excursion is going to suit your preferred pace.

We were also introduced to the coloured lollipop system, which we would use throughout the cruise.

Each excursion group has its own coloured sign, making it very easy to identify where you need to be and which guide you're travelling with.

With multiple excursions operating at the same time, it is a simple system that works brilliantly.

And then there was the heat...

The temperatures peaked at around 41°C, which was quite the shock for those of us arriving from a New Zealand winter.

After our time in Bratislava, we continued through the Austrian countryside towards Melk.

And finally, there she was... AmaSofia.

After all the changes required because of the low river levels, it was exciting to finally step aboard and meet the crew who would be looking after us for the next seven nights.

First Impressions of AmaSofia

We were welcomed aboard with a drink in the Main Lounge, before having the opportunity to look through several different cabin categories.

That evening, we enjoyed our first dinner in Journeys Restaurant, AmaSofia's main dining venue.

One thing I noticed almost immediately was how attentive the crew were.

Nothing seemed like too much trouble.

Their priority genuinely seemed to be making sure we were having a great time, and that level of service continued throughout the entire cruise.

It didn't feel overly formal. It felt warm, friendly and personal.

And after just a few hours onboard, it already felt like we were settling into our home for the week.

Every evening at around 6:00pm, we would head to Larks Lounge for the Sip & Sail.

This was where we heard about the schedule for the following day, important information we needed to know and what was happening onboard.

And, of course, there was the cocktail or mocktail of the day before heading down to dinner.

I liked that dinner wasn't allocated to a specific sitting.

You were given the restaurant's opening times and could choose when you wanted to dine.

There were different-sized tables, so you could sit by yourself, as a couple or join a larger table and meet other travellers.

There was also nightly entertainment in Larks Lounge, which was a lovely way to extend the day's cultural experience without having to leave the ship.

Day 3 – Melk Abbey & Dürnstein

We woke to another incredibly hot day, with temperatures again approaching 38°C.

Our morning began with a visit to the magnificent Benedictine Abbey of Melk.

The abbey sits high above the Danube and is one of the most impressive landmarks along this section of the river.

The architecture and interiors are spectacular, and the views across the surrounding landscape are equally impressive.

After our morning excursion, we returned to AmaSofia for lunch before heading out again in the afternoon.

This time, we were exploring Dürnstein.

Dürnstein is one of those quintessential Austrian villages that looks like it belongs on a postcard.

We walked through the narrow streets, learning about the history of the town, before enjoying a local wine tasting.

There was also time to browse the shops and look at some of the local crafts.

But there was one moment during the walking tour that really brought home just how unusual the river conditions were.

We were standing beside a flood-level indicator on one of the buildings, showing just how high the Danube has risen in the past.

And yet, at that very moment, the river was incredibly low.

In fact, locals had taken advantage of the low water levels and were setting up what looked like a makeshift beach along the river.

It was such an ironic sight.

Here we were standing beside evidence of how high the river can rise, while at that moment it was so low that people were creating a beach.

It was one of those moments that photographs simply can't quite capture.

Life Onboard AmaSofia

One of the things I loved about the cruise was how easy everything felt once we were onboard.

Breakfast in Journeys offered both a full buffet and made-to-order dishes from the menu, all included.

Beer and wine are included with lunch and dinner, while soft drinks, juice, tea and coffee are available throughout the day.

There are also coffee and tea machines in both Larks Lounge and near The Chef's Table, so you can help yourself throughout the day.

And then there is the food.

It's fresh, varied and plentiful.

I had the opportunity to see just how much work goes on behind the scenes to keep everything running.

The baker starts work around 10:00pm and again around 4:00am, making sure fresh bread and pastries are ready for guests.

There are also dedicated freezers for ice cream and sorbet.

It's those little behind-the-scenes details that make you realise just how much work goes into creating what feels like an effortless experience for guests.

The Heatwave & Low Water Levels

Throughout the cruise, the weather and river conditions were never far from conversation.

We were experiencing temperatures of around 40–41°C, while the Danube was running at exceptionally low levels.

As a travel advisor, this was one of the most valuable aspects of the trip for me.

I can read about low-water conditions.

I can explain to clients that river levels can affect a river cruise.

But experiencing it first-hand is very different.

Because of the low water levels, our cruise didn't begin in the traditional way in Budapest. Instead, we stayed at the Dorothea Hotel before travelling by coach to Melk to board AmaSofia.

What impressed me was how smoothly AmaWaterways managed the situation.

We were kept informed, the logistics were organised, and we were still able to experience the destinations and excursions planned for us.

It gave me a much better understanding of what happens behind the scenes when conditions aren't quite what you would normally expect.

And it also gave me confidence when thinking about how I would explain river conditions to my own clients.

Day 4 – Vienna

We took the full-day excursion to Vienna from Melk, travelling by coach into the Austrian capital.

Vienna deserves far more than a day, but this tour provided an excellent introduction to the city's imperial architecture, grand boulevards and historic centre.

We also had some free time to explore, shop and, of course, sample some local cuisine.

It was a long day, particularly in the heat, but it gave us a wonderful taste of Vienna.

Back onboard, we were starting to settle into a comfortable routine.

One of the interesting things about this particular cruise was seeing how AmaWaterways adapted when the itinerary needed to change. There was an opera experience in Vienna that had an additional cost and was part of the original plans.

Because of the changes to our itinerary, this couldn't go ahead. Rather than simply cancelling the evening and leaving us without an experience, AmaWaterways brought an opera singer onboard to perform for everyone onboard.

For me, that was a great example of how an itinerary can change while the experience itself can still be preserved.

Day 5 – Linz & Mauthausen Memorial

Day 5 started very differently. We were off!

We woke to heavy rain, and the ship was buzzing as we headed from Melk towards Linz.  This was also our first opportunity to really experience the ship navigating the locks along the Danube.

As we entered the first lock and watched the ship slowly rise to the next river level, it was fascinating to see the process from the Sun Deck. We went through a number of locks during the morning as we continued towards Linz.

In the afternoon, AmaWaterways had introduced a new excursion to the Mauthausen Memorial.

It hadn't originally been on the excursion list, so we had the opportunity to experience something quite different from the usual sightseeing tours.

Mauthausen was a Nazi concentration camp, and visiting the memorial was an incredibly sobering experience.  Our guide provided context before we arrived and explained what we would see and the history behind the site. This wasn't a light-hearted sightseeing excursion. It was confronting, emotional and difficult at times. Walking through the memorial and learning about what happened there is an experience that stays with you.

One of the things I value most about travel is that it isn't always about beautiful scenery, food and wine.

Sometimes it is about understanding the history of a place and remembering what happened there. 

The Mauthausen Memorial was certainly one of those experiences.

Day 6 – Český Krumlov: A Fairytale Town

 We headed to Český Krumlov, and if I had to choose the excursion that surprised me the most, this would be it.

It is an incredibly picturesque Czech town, filled with winding streets, colourful buildings, riverside views and an impressive castle complex. It genuinely feels like you've stepped into a fairytale.

We explored the historic centre, taking in the architecture and atmosphere of the town. Even with the heat still soaring, it was absolutely worth the journey.

Český Krumlov became one of my favourite days of the entire cruise and it really demonstrated one of the things I love about river cruising. Within a single week, you can experience magnificent abbeys, Austrian villages, historic cities, important historical sites and fairytale towns — all while unpacking just once.

Day 7 – Passau

We had been told that we would arrive in Passau around 7:00am, so a few of us were up at 5:30am to watch the approach.

After days of intense heat, the morning felt almost cold!

I had several layers on and was wrapped in one of the AmaWaterways blankets stored in the chests on the Sun Deck.  Before we knew it, around 40 fellow agents had gathered on the top deck to watch us cruise into Passau.  It was one of those lovely shared moments that you get when travelling with a group.

Exploring Passau at Our Own Pace, We had a few hours in Passau and decided to use the AmaWaterways app to try the self-guided walking tour. I was genuinely impressed.

The commentary was informative, the map was easy to follow, and we could explore at our own pace. We could stop for photographs, wander down a side street or spend longer somewhere that caught our attention.

For independent travellers who don't necessarily want to join a guided group every time, I think this is a fantastic feature.

One of the highlights of AmaWaterways is The Chef's Table.  This is a multi-course dining experience included in your cruise fare, and the dinner can be booked once during your cruise.

My advice?  Book it early.

You make your reservation once you're onboard, and if you can, I recommend choosing an evening when the ship is sailing rather than when you're in port. That way, you aren't missing out on exploring one of the destinations. 

The experience includes a wine pairing, and watching the food being prepared in front of you makes it feel like much more than just another dinner.

Day 8 – Disembarkation & The Reality Check

And suddenly, it was time to leave.

Our bags were outside our cabins by 7:30am, tagged with the appropriate coloured luggage labels.

We enjoyed one final breakfast before our transfer to Munich departed at 9:00am.

And then came the reality check.  Almost immediately, we were acutely aware of just how spoiled we'd been.
If you drop a towel on the floor, it will still be there when you next see it.
There is no buffet waiting for you.
Nobody is making your bed.
You have to make your own coffee.
And you have to cook your own food!
After a week of having everything taken care of, it was a rather rude return to reality.

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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW 

Are Excursions Included?

At each port, you'll be provided with a range of shore excursion options, and these are included in your cruise fare.

In some destinations, we had the choice of a full-day excursion or a morning or afternoon option. Excursions become available approximately 60 days before your cruise through your AmaWaterways app.

There is a good variety of excursions, with different activity levels making it easier to choose something that suits you. You can select a regular or gentle walking pace, and you'll be paired with a guide appropriate to that group.

You can also change excursions if there is availability. Biking and hiking excursions tend to have smaller numbers and may be subject to weather conditions. For example, our hike in Dürnstein was cancelled because it was simply too hot to complete safely.

There are also some special-interest excursions that come at an additional cost. On our cruise, one example was an evening opera experience in Vienna.

Do you need to tip local guides and drivers? 

Our cruise was based on pre-paid gratuities, and one feature I really liked was AmaWaterways' token system for tipping local guides and drivers.

On embarkation we received a bag of blue and red tokens and when we went on an excursion, you simply handed a token to your local guide and driver.  The guides and drivers always seemed genuinely pleased to receive them, and AmaWaterways manages the redemption process.

For me, this removed the awkwardness of wondering how much cash to carry or how much to tip. You simply hand over a token and say, "Thank you very much."

It's a small detail, but one that makes travelling just that little bit easier. 

Are Drinks Included?

Yes, there are plenty of drinks available throughout the day.

Tea, coffee and soft drinks are available throughout the day, and you'll find coffee and tea stations in Larks Lounge and The Chef's Table.

You can also refill your complimentary AmaWaterways water bottle with water and ice from the machines located around the ship.

Beer and wine are included with lunch and dinner.

Then, at 6:00 pm, the Sip & Sail in Larks Lounge offers a cocktail or mocktail of the day before dinner.

If you order drinks outside the included offerings or times, there will be an additional charge.

What Dining Options Are There?

There are three main places to enjoy food onboard.

Journeys Restaurant is the main dining venue, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. At breakfast and lunch, you can choose from the buffet or order from the menu.

The Chef's Table offers a more intimate dining experience, with lunch and dinner available. The evening Chef's Table experience can be booked once per cruise and includes a wine pairing, with the food prepared in front of you.

Then there's Larks Lounge, where you can grab snacks throughout the day, along with breakfast items, lunch and lighter evening options. It's more of a grab-and-go style option and is perfect if you don't want a full sit-down meal.

Do You Need to Tip the AmaWaterways Crew?

For the New Zealand and Australian markets, gratuities are included in your cruise fare.

If you'd like to give an additional tip to your room attendant or wait staff, that is entirely at your discretion.

There is also a tip box at reception, where you can leave money to be shared among the crew.

There is absolutely no obligation to add anything further, but the option is there if you feel someone has gone above and beyond.

Are River Cruise Ships Stacked Together?

YES! You are quite likely to have your river cruise ship "stacked" with another cruise ship at some point during your journey.

From my experience, this happened to us several times. Ships from different cruise lines can be berthed alongside one another, and depending on how the ships line up, getting ashore can be surprisingly straightforward.

If the ships' layout allows, you can often simply walk from your ship's reception area, through the neighbouring ship and straight onto the shore.

If the ships don't line up, you may need to go up to your ship's sundeck, cross a secure bridge onto the other ship's sundeck and then walk down through that ship to reach the shore.

If you have mobility issues, this is definitely something to consider when choosing a river cruise. We encountered this situation several times, and navigating between ships can involve stairs and different levels depending on how the ships are positioned.

Having said that, I actually found it quite fun. Walking through another cruise ship gave me the opportunity to have a look around and see how another cruise line — or even another ship in the same fleet — is designed.

There is one downside, however. If you have a veranda or French balcony and another ship is positioned directly alongside yours, you can temporarily lose your privacy. You may also have a very close-up view of the neighbouring ship rather than the river!

The most I personally saw was three ships stacked together. One of these was the AmaMagna, which is approximately twice the width of a conventional river cruise ship, so it certainly made the experience feel even more impressive.

Why Do Ships Move Around?

Ship stacking is a normal part of river cruising, and ships may also be moved around during the day for a variety of reasons. So, when you return from an excursion, it's worth paying attention to make sure you're boarding the right ship!

The order of the ships can change depending on which vessel is due to leave first. For example, your ship may need to be moved temporarily to allow another vessel to depart before returning to the dock. Ships may also be moved to a completely different docking location.

It's all coordinated by the local port and river authorities and is simply part of how river cruising works.

While it can seem a little confusing at first, it's generally unavoidable and nothing to be concerned about.

What Should You Pack?

Travelling through Europe during an extreme summer certainly taught me a few things!

My recommendations would include:

• A small umbrella. Not just for rain — it can also provide a surprising amount of shade when you're walking around in extreme heat.

• Good sunscreen. Personally, I'd recommend one that doesn't sting your eyes when you're sweating!

• Comfortable walking shoes. River cruising itself is easy, but many excursions involve walking over cobbled streets and uneven surfaces.

• A lightweight waterproof layer. We went from extreme heat to heavy rain, so having something light and waterproof was definitely useful.

• Layers. You don't need super-fancy clothing, but you do need comfortable pieces that you can mix and match to take you from day to night.

• Flexibility! Pack your ability to adapt and embrace changes. You may not always know exactly what the river, weather or local conditions have in store.

When is the best time to take a River Cruise?

Give some thought to the time of year.  Our August cruise coincided with an extreme European heatwave, with temperatures reaching around 38–41°C. Coming from a New Zealand winter, that was certainly an adjustment!

If you don't enjoy extreme heat, I'd personally consider travelling in spring or autumn, when temperatures are likely to be more comfortable. And if you're looking for something completely different, the Christmas market season would be another wonderful option.

It's also worth remembering that river levels can fluctuate, from exceptionally low to very high, and I've had clients affected by both. Changes to an itinerary can happen even on an ocean cruise.  So would I let this stop me from booking a river cruise? Absolutely not.

What this trip gave me was something I could never get from a brochure: first-hand knowledge of what river cruising looks like when conditions aren't perfect.

One of the most interesting conversations I had was with another AmaWaterways guest I met in Munich. She recognised me by my AmaWaterways water bottle, and we started chatting about our experiences. Although we were on different itineraries, we had both been travelling from Budapest to Vilshofen at the same time, so we were able to compare notes.

She was also very positive about how AmaWaterways had handled the changes to her itinerary. Rather than overnighting in Budapest, like I had, her cruise went directly to Vienna, where they stayed on an AmaWaterways ship for several nights before transferring to another ship for the final part of the journey. This is known as ship-to-ship, and it is something river cruise companies can arrange when conditions require it.

What really stood out to me was that the changes were made with the guests in mind. The itinerary may have been different from what was originally planned, but the cruise line was still focused on providing the best possible experience under the circumstances.

My biggest tip? If there's somewhere you really want to explore, don't leave it until the day your cruise begins. If Budapest is an important part of your trip, for example, arrive a few days early and spend some time exploring the city on your own. That way, if your river cruise itinerary needs to change, you won't feel like you've missed out on a destination that was important to you.

Ultimately, be open to flexibility and embrace the changes. It may not be exactly the journey you originally imagined, but that doesn't mean it can't still be a fantastic experience.

Would I Recommend Melodies of the Danube?

Absolutely!

By the time we left AmaSofia, I completely understood why so many people become passionate about river cruising.

There's something wonderfully easy about unpacking once, waking up somewhere new each day and stepping off the ship straight into the heart of a destination.

Our experience was certainly not what you would describe as a "normal" river cruise. Before leaving New Zealand, we were already aware that the cruise lines were facing significant challenges with exceptionally low water levels, and that some cruises were being amended or cancelled.

We were incredibly grateful that AmaWaterways' approach was essentially, "We go!"

And I'm so glad they did.

Our journey took us through Budapest, Bratislava, Melk, Dürnstein, Linz, Vienna, Mauthausen, Český Krumlov and Passau, with Vilshofen marking the end of our river journey.

Along the way, we experienced incredible architecture, wine tasting, fascinating history, beautiful scenery, some sobering moments, delicious food and plenty of laughs.

But perhaps what made this journey even more valuable to me was experiencing AmaWaterways when conditions weren't perfect. I didn't just see how they operate when everything goes according to plan — I saw how they responded when conditions were challenging.

That is knowledge I can now take with me when helping my clients decide whether an AmaWaterways river cruise is right for them.

AmaSofia and her amazing crew left a lasting impression on me.

Cruise Details

Cruise: AmaWaterways – Melodies of the Danube
Ship: AmaSofia
Duration: 7 nights
Travel: Inaugural AU/NZ Mega Famil
Date: August 2026

🚢 Hosted by AmaWaterways. As always, all opinions are my own based on my personal experience onboard.